Buzzy's Slick Honey Cycle Fork Suspension Grease

Product Information

Reinstall the lower legs onto the upper tubes. Inject 20cc of FOX 20wt. Gold oil into the spring-side lower leg. Applying lubrication to the stanchions will attract dirt and debris, which the wiper seal will wipe away upon the next compression, creating a ring of oil and debris that will need to be cleaned before your next ride. With routine 50 hour lower leg service, the fork will provide the necessary lubrication to the stanchions to perform properly until the next service interval is reached. Routine service combined with proper cleaning and inspection can extend the life and performance of your suspension product. Contamination or damage to the Pressure Relief Valve Assembly can cause an oil leak that allows the post to travel up when unweighted and down when weighted by a rider without actuation of the remote lever. The following procedure guides you through the full rebuild of the 2018+ Transfer Seatpost with Internal Cable Routing. The 2017 Transfer Seatposts with Internal Routing are slightly different from the 2018 models and can be rebuilt using the instructions found here: 2017 Transfer Seatpost Rebuild (Internal) »

It is very important to use the correct amount of bath oil in both sides of your fork. See the photo below to make sure you are using the correct oil type and oil volume for your fork. **Fox forks with the Grip Damper use Fox 5wt Silver Teflon Infused Fork Fluid on the damper side. Typically you want to use a lubricant that has a similar composition of what’s found in the bath system.MUC-OFF: Keeping your fork stanchions well lubricated is vital as it reduces the stiction between the wiper seal and the stanchion, which improves small bump sensitivity and trail buzz as the stiction is dramatically reduced. It also helps to keep dirt off the stanchion and seals as the silicon repels dirt and grime to the surfaces cleaner and hence reduces the risk of contaminants getting into the wiper seal (and in turn your fork oil). Start seating the Wiper Seal by hand, then use your Upper Bushing and Seal Installer to fully seat the Wiper Seal. Take a zip tie and gently push it into the seal, as far as it goes. There may be some air in there. I am guessing way to much could reduce the size if the air chamber – but that would have to be a token or twos worth … WET SEAL: Yes. One can imagine their stanchions are penetrating their lowers. Given it’s a tight fit, lube will reduce the heat on your forks’ seals as the result of friction. Without using lube, seals prematurely wear resulting in dirt/grime finding it’s way into the bath system. The space between the seals and the stanchions is extremely minute to prevent foreign particles from entering your lowers. Seals are the major line of defense for keeping them out. Ensuring that stanchions/seals are properly lubed will extend the life and performance of your fork.

It is obvious here that lube manufacturers have all interest to support external lubing. Yet it does not mean they are wrong. Often great products come out from an actual need. First, read all the answers you've already received. There's a lesson to be learned, if you look closely. WET SEAL: Our product Wet Seal was the first lubricant introduced to the industry specifically for suspension forks and this article. In 2014 we had the Suspension Experts in Asheville run a serious of tests on every fork to make sure our formula was 100% safe. I wasn't aware that SRAM was still recommending PM-600...how old are the instructions you were looking at?Daft question, is it not the same as a rubber grease used in automotives, that’s not mineral based ? is this the Float fluid that gets flushed out of the foam rings by the lower leg oil as the fork compresses? Not owned Fox for a while but seem to remember they changed the recommended oils for forks and binned Float off the list at one point. MUC-OFF: Re-apply before each ride for best results and maximum protection. BIKERUMOR: What’s the best way to clean them first? Wtaf, you’re only supposed to apply a tiny smear, to the seal rings and legs, not a ruddy gert dollop of the stuff. MRP: One tip we do recommend is to occasionally flip your bike over to allow the bath oil accumulated at the bottom of your lowers to wet your bushings and seals. If there is a sufficient amount of oil in there, it should splash around as the fork cycles anyway, but to expedite that process and make your fork feel fresh on the first hit, do the above.

The oil level slowly drops until you do a lower leg service at 50 hours or whatever interval experience says you need it. Before you put the new foam rings into the fork lowers, you will want to soak the foam rings in a small container of fork fluid. The damper side for the Grip 2 damper specifically uses Fox 5wt Teflon Infused bath oil and the air spring side uses Fox 20wt Gold bath oil. Give the foam rings a few minutes to absorb as much of the fork oil as possible.Slide the Lower Post up to expose the Shaft and Shaft Lug. Take note of the position of the ball bearing and mark the anti-rotation hole that the ball bearing was found in. If you are a cheap ass that neglects his suspension and doesn’t rebuild it at minimum once a year, you probably want to use external lube to mitigate the damage you are absolutely causing.(Looking at you Midwest, I know you)

Cleaning the stanchions removes any dirt and debris from the surface that the dust wiper seal keeps out of the fork with every compression. This extends the life of your dust wiper seals, minimizes damage to upper tubes, and minimizes lower leg contamination. MUC-OFF: Start by hosing down thoroughly to remove any dirt but do not force water into the seals. Our Nano Tech Bike Cleaner can be used to remove any stubborn grime and then rinsed and dried with a clean cloth. You can then apply a light coating of Silicon Shine around the stanchion/wiper seal and you are good to go. MRP: We recommend cleaning your seal areas with a mild soap and water mix periodically, sooner rather than later if there is significant dirt build up. Grab the Push Rod above the o-ring and hold it from turning while you unthread the Spool Valve with a 7mm wrench. When no new bubbles appear while cycling the Shaft, fully extend the Shaft and remove the Shaft Lug with the Internal Spool Valve Compressor tool. Install the appropriate IFP Height tool for your post, then reinstall the Shaft Lug with the Internal Spool Valve Compressor tool. Transfer TravelSomebody said guns? Lubriplate SFL-0. It's an NLGI 0, aluminum complex grease. This would also be a satisfactory choice for the bike, but 105 provides a little better corrosion resistance. Obviously , it is a very special lube, mined from a single cave on a long lost island, and can only be harvested at midnight. I am fairly sure they didn’t have to use liquid gold in my Ducati forks when it was serviced. But I might be wrong. Fork specific grease seems expensive, is this just bike tax or is it just an expensive type of grease? Keep it clean, soft cloth or light brush after every ride, bit of lube, wiped off so as not to form grinding paste.