Games Workshop Citadel Pot de Peinture - Layer Wild Rider Red

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The other pitfall is not enough shading. I think having extremely hard shadows in the recesses of red armor is essential for preserving detail at a distance, because you can't rely on just highlighting for the reasons discussed above. The model receives a wash of Army Painter Soft Tone followed by a drybrush of Vallejo Game Air Bonewhite and a second drybrush of Vallejo Model Color Gloss White. This is the same method I use for the bone color in my Primaris Marines and will serve as the foundation for the colors on top. Using the thinned air paint creates an interesting glaze effect which both highlights the edges and tints the entire model. When I first met Porter, he was carrying powder for a regiment of Empire Handgunners. Knowing that gunpowder and monkeys are a disaster waiting to happen, I sent him off to the Talabheim Tappers, a local Free Company Militia regiment where he could be safe and oh god he’s GOT A KNIFE The only time I feel alive is when I'm painting. Vincent Van Gogh

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Color Charts I don't actually think the exact paints/washes you use matter as much as simply attending to those issues. I've used Coelia Greenshade in the crevices and that works pretty well, but lately I've been just using carrowburg crimson because it's easier, although it doesn't get the same dark shade in the grooves.

World Eaters armies frequently charge into battle alongside Khorne Daemons. You can find more on how to paint them here. Add some off-white highlights. I wanted to be sure not to go too bright, so I didn’t go with pure white. For this model I used Vallejo Model Air Insignia White, but I think a future model might use Vallejo Model Air White Grey or something else about one step down the brightness scale. The Imperial Guard: The Imperial Guard are the primary troops of the Imperium in Warhammer 40K. Wild Rider Red can be used to paint the details of their armor and weapons, such as the markings and symbols of the Imperial Guard. Transfers – I’ll keep this brief as plenty has been written here already; I get all my sets from Mighty Brush and do the following:Evil Sunz Scarlet in a smaller crescent atop the previous one, leaving space for the Khorne Red towards the center The remaining miniatures from the box were painted up to match my existing Tyranid force. I have quite a large army of these guys already, as well as a subservient Genestealer Cult, so I’ll be dropping these straight into that collection – which actually featured in the Crusade section of the previous Tyranids codex. They've also got their speedpaints range if you fancy something like Contrast but cheaper. I've bought a few now. They go on smoother more easily than Contrast, but you still need to be somewhat careful with coverage and soaking up pools on flat surfaces, but the results can be pretty impressive, I'd say this is accurate. The last time I painted a Tyranid model for my custom hive fleet was pre-Contrast paint, so it was nice to try out the new colours and find some much faster ways to get to a good result (shout-out to Striking Scorpion Green for that vivid tropical emerald). Contrast paints and Tyranids are such a perfect match. Darcy: Termagant Experiments You may have noticed that Rippy is a bit of an oddity, a Ripper of Unusual Size if you will. I made him by using some pieces that most Tyranid players end up with a lot of; a Trygon skull cap, toxin sacs, extra claws, and a Genestealer head. You can see how it all comes together in the image below. More adventurous modelers who worry about people looking “under the shell” so to speak are welcome to shove Green Stuff into the gaps and make it look suitably organic. Personally I just tell people that Rippy would appreciate it if they didn’t violate his personal space. Rippers. Credit: Primaris Kevin

The other parts of the models are more consistent – the shiny insectoid carapace uses Gryph-Charger Grey over a Leadbelcher basecoat, with added highlights of thin striped Stormhost Silver , all followed up with a wash of Terradon Turquoise thinned with Contrast Medium . The meat and bone bits are Flesh Tearers Red over Wraithbone, with Pallid Wych Flesh highlights. The meaty parts then got a thinned Volupus Pink wash, while the talons and hooves were finished with a wash of Gryph-Charger Grey. Gav: Termagants and Neurogaunts Contrast Wyldwood for the pouches, a dab of Contrast Iyanden Yellow on the Purity Seal, Skulls and weapon housing for a spot of colour.Three coats of Daler Rowney FW Crimson acrylic ink. Each coat brings more vibrance to the red, so do as many as you feel you need. If you want more of the purple tones from the official GW schemes, try using either Process Magenta or Purple Lake as your first layer, or mixing it into the Crimson. There’s other little details that can be painted but this is my stopping point for a non-display miniature. This is the general workflow I use for most of my miniatures and I find that it is a nice mix of speed and detail for me. Dylan Gould’s Method

Pet love extends beyond the bounds of Games Workshop. Knight Models get in on the action in a whole bunch of ways, from Harley’s hyenas to the giant goddamn demon that Damien Wayne drags around. But none more majestic then the owls that the Court of Owls deploy. Owl. Credit: Lupe Now for the finishing touches. A Flesh Tearer should be blood-stained so I drop some Blood for the Blood God on his chainsword and some drops on the base to make him suitably stained. The base is Astrogranite drybrushed with Celestra Grey and then some Valhallan Blizzard and tufts of Army Painter static grass on top of that. I’m very happy with how this guy turned out and may paint more of these in the future if I can settle on a faster way to do the shoulder pad icons. Credit: Robert “TheChirurgeon” Jones Credit: Robert “TheChirurgeon” Jones Blue Malayan Coral Snake : The effect on the body was achieved by using thinned Frostheart Contrast with a White Scar drybrush, wet blending with Blood Angels Red Contrast for the head and tail. Scales are Leviadon Blue with a Blue Horror drybrush. Carefully edge highlight the red with Scalecolor SC-37 Antares Red. I even highlight into some of the shaded areas to add a bit of definition.

Tones

You can use this technique on owls from Games Workshop too. I switched the basecoats out for Zandri Dust but otherwise it’s the same process. Owl. Credit: Lupe Cadian Fleshtone: Cadian Fleshtone is a pale, neutral flesh color that can be used to create highlights and shadows on the red armor of Wild Rider Red miniatures. As a flesh-coloured paint, it can be used to create a sense of depth and balance on the miniature, making the red appear more dynamic. Gloss varnish the whole thing. We’re going to work on this at the same time as the reds for a moment, so we’re doing steps 6-9 to apply decals and a pinwash.