King Japanese Nagura Stone #8000

Product Information

I've asked a lot of questions of this sub lately And every time you guys have given me extremely insightful answers.

The katana holds a significant place in Japanese history. The samurai sword, as it is often called, is deeply intertwined with the samurai's code of honor, Bushido. The polished blade of a katana is not just steel forged and polished; it is a symbol of the samurai's spirit. To hold a razor sharp katana is to hold a piece of history in your hands. The art of sharpening these swords, once a closely guarded secret among Japanese swordsmiths, is now a symbol of Japan's cultural heritage. Another common mistake is rushing the process. Sharpening a katana takes time, patience, and focus. If you're in a hurry, you're more likely to make mistakes. Take your time, pay attention to the blade, and let the process guide you. Remember, the aim is not just to get the blade sharp, but to maintain the integrity of the blade and to honor the craftsmanship that went into creating it. Best Practices for Effective Sharpening Jap. Waterstones Which waterstone should I choose? KING and SUN TIGER Suehiro and Cerax Shapton Ha-no-kuromaku line 1STONE NANIWA Lobster Naniwa Sharpening Stones Naniwa Professional Stones Imanishi Bester Sigma Select II Juuma Cobalt Blue JUUMA Whetstone Pro NANIWA Traditional Stones Japanese water stones:In the next article in this depraved series about sex, drugs and goat washing, we will discuss ways to maintain sharpening stones. Some people will be miffed. Others will be thrilled. Goats will be indifferent. What about you?

I use the Nagura, and very occasionally (once a year?) the glass plate to true my finishing stones. Remember, safety first. Always handle the blade with care, especially when it's sharp. Use a blade holder or wear cut-resistant gloves if you're not confident handling a bare blade. And most importantly, always sharpen the blade away from your body, never towards it. Once your sharpening station is set up, take a moment to center yourself. Sharpening a katana requires focus and patience. It's not just about getting the blade sharp; it's about connecting with the blade and the centuries of history it represents. Step-by-Step Guide to Sharpening a Katana However most sharpening leaves a hollow in a waterstone and selectively rubbing the ends of a stone with a nagura can keep the stone flatter longer. In a addition you get a slurry. After you've finished sharpening your katana, it's important to clean it thoroughly. This involves removing any metal particles left on the blade from the sharpening process, as well as any excess water from the stones. Use a clean, soft cloth to gently wipe down the entire blade. Be sure to get into all the nooks and crannies, as any remaining moisture can cause the blade to rust over time. Once you've found the correct angle, maintain it as you glide the blade across the stone. Apply firm but gentle pressure, moving the blade in a sweeping motion across the stone. Remember, you're sharpening the entire surface of the blade, not just the edge. Start at the base of the blade, near the hilt, and work your way to the tip. Repeat this process until you've sharpened the entire length of the blade. Proper Techniques for SharpeningThe slurry created on your water stone will be a combination of the grits from the water stone and from the nagura. When pairing a nagura with a water stone, it is typical to choose a nagura that is the same or higher grit than your water stone. For instance, with a 1000 grit water stone, you would use a 1000 grit or finer nagura. While it is possible to use a nagura that is coarser than your water stone, doing so will introduce larger abrasive particles to the stone's surface, making the slurry coarser than what you would get from the stone itself. Maximize the Polish But I've been given advice that if the stone absorbs enough metal particles that the resurfacing Stone will not fix that . Unrivalled Performance: Offering two individual, whetstones for precision sharpening, constructed of top-grade corundum (aluminium oxide). Understanding the components of a katana is essential for those who want to learn how to sharpen a katana properly. The blade is the most critical part, and it's where all the sharpening action happens. The blade's surface needs to be treated with care to maintain its razor edge. It's not just about making the blade sharp; it's about preserving the blade's integrity and ensuring it's ready for anything. Wet the Naniwa Nagura by spraying or briefly submerging it. These are splash-and-go, and a long soak is not required to prepare them. Your water stone should also be wet. Once both are wet, rub the surface of your water stone with the nagura. This will create a slurry of abrasive particles on the surface of the water stone to prepare it for enhanced sharpening. Choose from 10 grits

The Knifewear Nagura Stone developed in part by our good friends at Naniwa, one of the premier manufacturers of sharpening supplies, is in essence a very hard 600 grit stone. Here’s how it works: Some might be tempted to use power tools for the job, but traditionalists would strongly advise against it. The heat generated by power tools can damage the blade's temper, ruining its cutting edge. Plus, there's something profoundly satisfying about sharpening a katana by hand, feeling the blade against the stone, and seeing the edge come to life under your touch. Remember, sharpening and polishing a katana is a journey, not a race. Take your time, choose your tools wisely, and respect the blade. Setting Up Your Sharpening Station The katana is more than just a sword; it's a piece of art, a cultural icon, and a testament to the craftsmanship that Japan has to offer. The sharp edge of a katana sword is not just about the cutting surface; it's about the balance, the symmetry, and the harmony that the blade brings. The sword' entire blade, from tip to hilt, is crafted with utmost precision, and the razor-sharp edge is the culmination of hours of dedicated work. Therefore, understanding how to sharpen a katana is about respecting this tradition and maintaining the blade's integrity. Historical Significance of the Katana

A: A sword can be re finished if the original polish is deemed to be of good quality. Shape, geometry and over all it has no deep problems. The decision must be left up to the polisher. If a person is asking for a “touch up” just to save money and is not interested in what is best for the blade again a polisher may choose not to work on that sword. No professional polisher will grind a sword down from the first stones if it is not necessary, I certainly will not. The battle is to remove as little as possible and at the same time achieve the best results for a particular sword.

Hold the blade up to a light source and look along the edge. If the edge reflects light, it's dull. A sharp edge, on the other hand, will not reflect light. Understanding the state of your blade will help you determine how much work needs to be done and guide you in selecting the right tools for the job. Applying the Sharpening Stone After several sets of passes, you'll see a thin line on the end of your chisel blade. Job well done.

Finishing Polishing

FULL POLISH” incorrect description: To polish a sword from the course stones to the finishing polish that gives the sword a beautiful and correct appearance to the trained eye of a Japanese sword collector “regardless” of the sword or rust, any other problems or non-problems on a particular sword. In general I don't use a nagura stone these days, except to remove high spots on the stone when I am in the middle of working. An alternative method of nagura is to use what is called a tomo nagura or a partner nagura. Traditionally, tomo nagura are a piece of the whetstone itself which has been cut separately. This provides a palm-sized chunk or smaller which can be used on the larger whetstone’s surface. A traditional tomo nagura is ideal as the the slurry generated between the whetstone and nagura will consist of all the same particles since they are essentially the same material. This is the only natural nagura type where you do not pull particles which are different from the whetstone into the slurry mix.