Hornby R070 00 Gauge Turntable Electric

Product Information

In DCC, are the turnouts made live by the roating rail turning to them, or must a separate connection be made?"

I will see how much noise a new motor makes at reduced voltage once I get one, and assess whether I can live with it. Otherwise I will play with bits of flannelette in carefully selected spots inside (wouldn't want it to get into the gears or motor!). Given the very low duty cycle of the motor, I wouldn't have thought heat build-up would be too much of an issue (but we'll see). The Round Hole part is the one that was desighned for the Electric Motor Operated version of theTurntable. (Only Elecric Motor Operated versions have been made for many years now...including the current issue). I used to produce this 'adaptor', initially as a 'service' to model railwayers, but have found it financially unviable.removed or a short circuit will result. What causes this short to occur - from where to where?[/i]" You will need to feed the rotating bridge motor from the dc supply using the old dc controller. So locate the two wires that run to the motor and remove them form any Hi, Rog (RJ) has covered much of your questions regarding the use of the R070 turntable on DCC. But if I can expand: Using the T/T with DCC comes into two categories; The problem with sound-proofing is that you could then cut the ventilation to the motor...which could then get a bit warm...

The Square Hole part is the one you would need for a Hand Operated version of theTurntable (Hand Operated versions have not been made for many years now...) IF, I wire one rail to + and one to - then surly when I turn the table by 180 degrees, I will get a direct short. Yes?" That gets me to outlets. Your system will be fine on these where they are not connected elsewhere in the layout. If they are connected elsewhere and that From my point of view, I run my trains via Railmaster programs, including the movement of the turntable. I prefer to be as automated as possible so that I can enjoy watching the trains, rather than spend a lot of time and mental energy controlling them myself. But as I say, that is only my personal preference.connection has the polarity reversed (my reference was to a reversing loop situation in my original post), then there is still an isolation issue. But a simple gapping still has the problem of a loco shorting over it as it passes surely? I'm tempted to get a R070 Turntable for a Thomas based kiddies layout, which will be controlled via DCC. I would like to ensure that an outlet spur is only live when the turntable is in the correct position for that

is a very nice number when discussing this sort of thing. When a circle is divided into 16 slices, the angle is 22.5 degrees, the same angle seen on a compass. Unfortunately, in the mathematics of the RM layout, there angles are multiples of 45 degrees from the horizontal or vertical. So in the suggested icon above, the new outlets which are at positions NNE, ENE, ESE, SSE, SSW, WSW, WNW, and NNW i.e. the 22.5 degree ones, are converted to fit the RM geometry by connecting to the centre of an adjoining grid cell, making a slight kink as it does so .... I am thinking of putting a building over the motor housing....possibly a 'sand house' with a chimney for ventilation...or a Water Tower with vents?The special worms are also available....just need a worm puller to remove existing worm....and a method of fitting new worm without damaging the motor.... effectively make a reversing loop, is a short caused or is the loop isolated by the different positions of the rotating rail as it goes from one turnout to the other?[/i]" I was wondering whether anyone had attempted to muffle the noise - e.g. inserting sound deadening material on the inside of the motor/gear housing, or mounting the TT on some kind of insulating mat, or . . . . . . ? Because the motor itself is quite quiet. Failing that, how feasible do you think it would be for me to fit the worm myself, using a mechanic's vice? It looks like it is theoretically possible, but do you think there is too much risk of motor damage - bent shaft, etc.? I would still have to buy a new worm from Peter at the same time as a wormless motor, because my existing worm can't be freed from my current motor. Definitely Plan B.

The next potential problem for DCC is that half the outlet positions are at reversed polarity to the inlet. This is due to the way the connections are made to the bridge under the turntable and you can look up Brian Lambert for an explanation I was planning to use a 2-pole centre-off switch with a supply of suitable voltage, once I have got the motor in and tested to see what it needs. I realise that my loco's (motor or lights) will not operate until the turntable is in the correct position but I prefer it like that." If you

Hello,

Kerry, you've now used up your two posts until this time tomorrow. If only you had answered ALL my questions like Q1 & Q4 in the absence of full answers. I shall now have to make some assumptions to fill in the gaps. Ignore the DCC Decoder connections to the hut for the R410 TT, this drawing is for a motorised bridge R070 TT and not the manually rotated R410 version. There was a kit, Turntable Motorising Unit, R.411, which was used to motorise the R.410 Hand-Operated Turntable... The square hole is for the square 'pin' on the end of the "Water Crane" to engage in...turning the Wayer Crane operated the turntable... It seems that that the turntable gear is the same as used in an X.03 powered loco, and that therefore the X.03 worm should work...if it has the length to reach the gear?