Fujifilm XF50-140 mm F2.8 R LM Optical Image Stabiliser, Weather Resistant Lens

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The Fujifilm XF 50-140mm F2.8 R LM OIS WR exhibits virtually no barrell or pincushion distortion, as you can see in the photos below. Again, I personally did use a battery grip with this lens. Fujifilm’s cameras can be really compact and it feels weird to balance. That said, you will always be supporting this lens with your hand.

Honestly, I relied on the teleconverter a lot because I was shooting photos of animals and it’s often not possible to “zoom with your feet” in those kinds of situations (not just because you’re in a car, but because it’s not safe).

Do you need a battery grip to use this lens comfortably?

Thanks for your suggestion. I love to have a lighter lens on my camera and I love shooting primes. I move more and my composition improves as a result. I’ve spent many years shooting f/2.8 zooms on Canon and Nikon and primes on Hasselblad/ Phase One and now Fuji. The 16mm f/1.4 is amazing and my go to w/a. I’d be happy to use this at f/1.4 (that’s my default setting) and at 2 stops faster it is perfect for dark churches, interior receptions and evening parties etc. I’d have that over an f/2.8 zoom any day. I’ll be taking the f/2.8 16-55 to America on my road trip for two weeks where in the deserts and canyons it will be far better suited than my non weather sealed primes. It will be bright in the deserts too so no problems there. The great news is we have a choice and what suits me might not suit someone else. Maybe we have too much choice. Kit should not be the topic of conversation, photographs are what counts. What kit was used to take them is immaterial most of the time.

We’re all quite familiar with the 70-200mm lens and its varied uses, so let’s dive right into taking a look at Fujifilm’s offering in this class. Build Quality and Handling The 50-140mm stabilizer works so well that my hand-held shots are sharp at 1/8 second at 140mm, and most are usable at 1/4 second. I'm unsure if everyone will do this well, it helps if you know how to shoot a rifle well.For the manual focus ring to work, you have to change the setting on your camera. Otherwise the ring is ignored in autofocus. Even in manual focus, the ring is never connected to the lens; it's connected to a computer which in turn moves a motor in the lens to focus.

These are the key differences. Further, if you are looking for something that can double as a portrait lens and a wildlife lens, the 50-140mm is probably a safer bet thanks to the f2.8 aperture. I probably wouldn’t spend the money on a 100-400mm lens unless I knew I would be shooting wildlife regularly (and, for example, didn’t live in the middle of a big city…which I do). A happy penguin couple 🙂 Should you also buy a teleconverter? It's probably the only f/2.8 telephoto zoom made for an APS-C camera, and this Fujinon is made out of metal, not plastic. OIS is the image stabilizer. Leave it on as shown here, except if you're on a tripod for long exposures. Nano-GI stands for Fuji's version of Nikon's Nano and Canon's Air Sphere Coatings. In this case, GI stands for gradient index, and like all these anti-reflection coatings, these coatings vary their indices of refraction to be even more effective than multicoating at reducing reflections.

The Fuji XF 50-140 is super-sharp at all settings. It's sharp edge to edge at every aperture. Only under the most stringent lab conditions can I see the slightest corner softening at f/2.8 at 140mm. Look at the shot above; even wide-open at f/2.8 and 140mm it's sharp edge-to-edge and has no distortion or falloff. (Of course only the center row is actually in focus.)