Creality Ender-5 S1 Parameters: Printing Technology: FDM Max.Printing Speed: ≤250mm/s Power Loss Recovery: Yes Build Volume: 220 x 220 x 280mm Typical Printing Speed: ≤120mm/s Filament Runout Sensor: Yes Product Dimensions: 425 x 460 x 570mm Acceleration: 2000mm/s2 Rated Voltage: 100-120V~,200-240V~, 50/60Hz Package Dimensions: 528 x 474 x 340mm Nozzle Type: Brass nozzlex1 Rated Power: 350W Net Weight: 12.2kg Nozzle Diameter: Standard 0.4mm File Transfer: SD card, USB Type-C cable Gross Weight: 14.7kg Printing Accuracy: ±0.1mm File Formats: STL,OBJ,AMF Extruder Type: ''Sprite''dual-gear direct drive extruder Layer Height: 0.05-0.35mm Supported Filaments: PLA, PETG, ABS, TPU, PC, ASA, HIPS Extruder Material: All metal Filament Diameter: 1.75mm Leveling Mode: CR Touch auto-leveling Nozzle Temperature: ≤300℃ Slicing Software: Creality Slicer, Creality Print, Cura, Repetier-Host, Simplify3D Mainboard: 32-bit silent mainboard Heatbed Temperature: ≤110℃ Display Screen: 4.3inch color touch screen Build Surface: PC spring steel sheet Ul Languages: English, Spanish, German, French, Russian, Portuguese, Italian, Turkish, Chinese

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No, not in my opinion. If you choose the right printer and a well-designed model it can be quite easy. In this article, I’ll explain how I went from unboxing to printing in just over an hour. I haven’t made any modifications to the Creality Ender-5 S1 just levelled the bed as per the instructions and I was printing shortly after the assembly. Creality seems to be capitalizing on the 3D print community’s obsession with speed, and may be overselling the Ender 5 S1’s capabilities a bit. It’s not as fast as the AnkerMake M5, which truly runs at 250 mm/s as is our favorite fastest printer. But this machine can reliably hit 150 mm/s and can certainly run circles around an Ender 3 S1. It’s definitely As for TPU, it’s possible to print this flexible filament on both machines, but the Bowden extruder setup of both machines can cause all manner of headaches – jams, clogs, slips, and extremely temperamental retraction performance. Unless you’re willing to make some targeted upgrades to adapt the printers, TPU is best left alone. The UI offers several language options including English, Spanish, German, French, Russian, Portuguese, Italian, Turkish and Chinese.

This is because the flexible filament compensates for part of the force acting on the filament. And the higher the acceleration forces are, the stronger this compensation becomes. This means that the printing speed in particular must be lowered and the retraction deviates greatly from other filaments. Once you're all up and running, you turn it on and get to see the 4” color touchscreen, and this is something I’ve grown to appreciate, Mostly because it is landscape. Most of the 3D printers I own with touchscreens are portrait or tiny; the size of the screen here, along with nice finger-sized buttons (even for chubby fingers), works well and is intuitive enough, allowing you to have temperature presets, manually adjust temperature and jog movement, you can even change printer parameters such as speed, maximum accelerations, and jerk, all without having to connect the printer to a serial host.

An ideal choice for any keen 3D print enthusiast or small business that needs a professional-level printer on a budget

To achieve print success using ABS, an enclosure is a must have to ensure the table thermal conditions the filament needs. As we know, neither the Ender 3 and Ender 5 have an enclosure as standard, though it’s possible to build or buy one, at which point both machines perform admirably printing ABS. s High-speed Printing Ender】: The Official Creality Ender 5 s1 3D Printers Refine motion system with a standalone motor at each X/Y/Z axis for up to 2000mm/s² acceleration, and a steel transmission shaft that connects and syncs the Y-axis belts. The 3D Printer alves the printing time and boosts efficiency. For most amateur printing projects, 50 to 80 mm/s is widely considered the optimal range to balance out print speed and print quality. As far as accessories go, the printer comes with all the tools you’ll need to build it. There are a selection of Allen keys – not as nice as the ones that came with the Ender 3, which have ball heads for working at fiddly angles, but still perfectly functional – a screwdriver and a couple of stamped metal spanners. You also get a nozzle cleaning needle, side cutters for snipping filament, and a spatula for getting stubborn prints off the build surface. There’s a also a full-sized SD card loaded with a couple of models and a PDF of the manual, a USB adapter for it, and a supply of filament to get you started. This was a step up from the usual loose coil you get with a new printer; the Ender 5 S1 comes with a proper 250g spool of white PLA. As 3D printers go, few machines are quite as well suited to upgrades and modifications as the Ender series.

The easiest way to create a good Cura profile for the Ender-5 S1 is to create a blank profile and adjust the machine settings and print settings accordingly. I printed a regular-size Zaribo Calibration Cube to see if the printer can keep up with the cooling needs of such a small model and again, it performed quite well. Unfortunately, this print shows the ringing effect much clearer, a sign that the weight of the print head is a bit too much for the 2k acceleration values I used.Finally, I printed Doctor Aphra from Eastman’s Patreon in Eryone Silk PLA and it came out really nice. Consistent extrusion and shine, good overhangs, and minor ringing. While it was printed a bit slower than the rest of the models, I think the printer can manage most common filaments easily. The first thing to do, obviously, was to level the bed. The integrated CR Touch gives autolevelling capability, but before trying a print I decided to start off with a conventional levelling routine. The menu gives a neat option for this, with five numbered points corresponding to the centre and corners of the bed. Touch the appropriate point and the print head will move there, ready to be tested for clearance with the usual sheet of paper. The levelling menu includes up and down buttons to set the Z axis offset, so I set the levelling wheels at each corner of the bed to the middle of their travel, then used the offset buttons to get the centre of the bed at the correct height. Then I moved the head to each corner in turn and used the wheels to adjust them. I repeated the whole process twice more to make sure everything was perfectly dialled in, then opened Cura and went to slice a Benchy. Where the Ender 3’s build volume is 220 x 220 x 250mm, the Ender 5 has a larger Z axis, giving it a build volume of 220 x 220 x 300 mm. While this may not seem like a massive change on paper, it does put the Ender 5 in a league of its own with print potential. With the filament loaded, you can then follow the bed leveling process. The bed leveling utilizes the same process as the Ender-3 S1 Pro. This takes you through the leveling process of z-axis offset, then manual leveling, and finally, auto leveling. As I've seen with other Creality printers, the auto bed leveling is about the best I've come across. Features The auto-leveling still has a manual element and requires adjustment of the bed by tuning spring-loaded height adjustment wheels underneath. This means that the 3D printer is prone to losing its bed level after a few prints. While it might not seem like a big deal to keep releveling, it can be a pain and often leads to prints failing and materials lost. It also runs counter to the entire reason for auto-leveling, the removal of human error from the equation.

The only problem with this model is a missed layer on the right-hand glove, but other than that, it looks really nice.Calibrating the retraction is one of the most important things you can do for optimal results. When calibrating, you pay attention to how the stringing behavior changes when you change the retraction distance and retraction speed.

Print temperature: Same as the rest of the object, or 5-10 °C higher for better print bed adhesion. Unlike single gantry printers, each of the three axes of the Ender-5 S1 is driven by a powerful high precision stepper motor, providing robust and reliable operations for maximum productivity. Print speed: 50% of normal print speed (i.e. 25 mm/s for a normal print speed of 50 mm/s) or 5-10 mm/s for high print bed adhesion From left to right: Volcano style, Creality Spider nozzle, and Standard Creality MK8. (Image credit: Tom's Hardware) Creality sent me the printer to review at no charge and after some discussion, I agreed to make this article showing how to print a 3d model aeroplane. This review is purely my own experience and they have had no input. Why use a 3d printer for RC Models?There’s not much to talk about in this case, as the board is pretty generic, but I like that it uses a Type-C connector and a regular-size SD card to make it easier to handle. 4.3-inch Touchscreen Over to the Ender 5 and we have a much more streamlined experience. It arrives semi-assembled and only requires a handful of steps and some light screw work to complete. The manual is clear and concise, allowing you to complete the build in a swift half hour.