Rubie's Official Marvel Avengers Assemble Iron Man Child Gloves,- One Size, Red

Product Information

Here's the plan. We're going to create a sort of double loop design. The positive loop around the base, and an elevated negative loop. These loops will be constructed of bare copper wire, each one connected to its respective lead on the battery. Connect a 3v power supply to the breadboard. This could be the 3v watch battery if you have a holder that can plug in, it could be a 2 cell AA battery holder, which would provide a total of 3v, or it could be a bench power supply set to 3v, to name a few options.

This step took way more work than I was expecting and is fairly optional, but in my opinion it was totally worth it. Here's the bottom line: Place the reference electrode nonadjacent to the muscle body that the other electrodes were placed. Using spare wire or alligator clips, connect/hold one end to the Lillypad's GND pin and tap any of the trigger pins. You should hear a different sound clip for each trigger pin. This is the obvious major step in this build, and you're welcome to stop after this step. Especially if you print the glove in red filament, you could make a similar build for a lot less work, but it won't have as nice a finish or color. It should be fairly self explanatory, but here was my process: Adjust the MyoWare placement - improper electrode placement can lead to a smaller signal detected by MyoWareThe Lilypad MP3 comes with the Trigger sketch preloaded. This sketch will play a sound from the microSD disc when the associated trigger pin (T1, T2, T3, T4, and T5) are pulled to ground. The lights should turn on! If not, don't worry, I still plug things in wrong every day, so just review the previous steps carefully. If nothing seems wrong, you might have a bad component (I've found especially some breadboards can be really inconsistent) so try swapping out the parts! As the foam seals, you should be able to see the foam turn slightly shinier. Makes it easy to tell were the hot air has passed over already.

Decrease the system threshold in the Arduino code - the default threshold is just a suggestion you can increase it to make the system require a stronger flex to trigger or decrease to require a weaker flex. Warning - this could increase false triggering. Print the fingers several times. The print was tuned for the person who designed it, but everyone's hand is a little different. Be prepared to print the pieces several times to tune the sizes to your own hand. I found it really helpful to keep a personal log of the print scalings and how well they fit me. Here is my final scalings:

Site Customisation

Shake the can and spray the box a bit. Get a feel for the trigger, the distance, how fast it colors, etc. Place an led on the breadboard, the positive lead on one trace and the negative lead on another. A trace is the row of the breadboard that is electrically connected. The positive lead of an LED is the longer leg, the negative lead the shorter one. If you used a connector to attach the NeoPixel to the Lilypad, cut a hole in the lower palm and thread the wire through such that the NeoPixel can be Velcroed/Glued to the foam armor but the wire can be threaded between the foam armor and the glove to the Lilypad on the upper palm.

Clean up the print. I started with the main body piece, first removing the supports, brim, and stringy bits, and then going around with a small file cleaning up the corners and rough edges.

Size Charts

For the sake of time this project ended up far simplified from what I originally planned. I plan to continue this project in the future, but I wanted to outline some of the next things I wanted to try for anyone who wants a more involved project: Position the speaker between the top and bottom upper palm pieces and cut out a circle in the top piece smaller then the diameter of the speaker. Paint the parts! Now you're ready to start painting. Just remember to DO LIGHT COATS. I can't stress this enough. In past projects, I've painted it too heavy and it just started running and dried weird. It was fine, but for just a little more effort it can come out so much better. Then use the positive and negative leads that you connected in number 3. Plug the other end of these wires into the traces connected to the positive and negative leads of the battery. The plus should denote the positive side, but if you're not sure, the circuit will only work one way, so try both! It's not that important in a simple circuit like this, but it is good practice to plug in the negative lead first. The second will "wipe" along the ring coloring each LED green and then pulse in brightness a few times before "wiping" the LEDs off.

Wait for good weather. Rather than testing fate on a day when it might rain, I waited a day or two until it was clear and sunny. This is all that's really necessary. If you can't or don't want to put in the extra time, skip the rest of this step. If you want to get a better finish and a cleaner final product however, read on.Figure out how you want to position the Lilypad MP3 between the glove and foam armor upper palm. Cut a slot in the upper palm bottom section to allow the speaker to be slid through. Next I used my dremel rotary tool. I had this from a previous project, so it was convenient for me. You by no means have to use a fancy tool to sand, in fact I also used some sand paper by hand later on. use whatever tools you have available to you, and are comfortable using. What I did here was construct a parallel circuit, wiring 4 leds to one 3v watch battery. I would suggest wiring up the 4 leds to the battery on a breadboard before assembling it in 3D. Clean off the models. Use compressed air, blow off the dust from sanding, you could try wiping them down with a damp paper towel, just make sure the prints are fairly clean before painting. Find the model on thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1779274 I used the models here. Big shoutout to DaDave for compiling this epic suit of 3D printed Iron Man Armor! I only printed the main hand piece, fingers, and the center disk, but you're welcome to print even more of the armor!