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Helena Rubinstein 01 - Black Black

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Both of these ‘waters’ were used in anti-wrinkle treatments. The milder Eau Vert was recommended for women up to the age of forty or for reducing fine lines, the stronger Eau qui Pique for women older than forty or to treat deeper lines. Massage

Apply Valaze Grecian Cream (Anthosoros) patting in well around the eyes, and whenever there is any tendency for lines or hollows. Valaze Beauty Grains:“[K]eeps the skin charmingly pure and alabaster-like in its transparency, improves the skin’s texture, and preserves its velvety touch. It does away with greasiness of the skin, and prevents pores becoming enlarged.” I sold the American corporation for one reason only—to save my marriage. It was a sacrifice, for my business had always meant more to me than money. Besides, every instinct told me that bankers would have neither the training not the intuition necessary to operate a cosmetic company. I felt there was no alternative, however.Above: 1924 Women processing water lily buds in the St. Cloud factory in Paris. The flowers appear to be from the European white water lily Nymphaea alba which has a sweet fragrance. After the petals were removed they were placed in large glass bottles along with a solvent to extract the scent. In December, 1914, Rubinstein took out a lease at 15 East 49th Street, New York and, after suitable renovations, opened her first American Maison de Beauté Valaze there in May, 1915. The modernist-influenced interiors and Nadelman sculptures generated a lot of press interest and Rubinstein would repeat this stratagem in the future, using her growing art collection to generate free publicity.

In Paris, Rubinstein had been operating from her Insitut de Beauté Valaze at 126 Rue du Faubourg since 1921. Valaze Beautifying Skinfood or Novena Sunproof and Windproof Creme were considered protective in summer or winter. Rubinstein also recommended wearing Valaze Complexion Powder or Novena Poudre when outdoors, and Valaze Lip Lustre to protect the lips. If engaging in strenuous sporting activities then Valaze Complexion Powder could help mop up any perspiration. Make-up Drawing of the new Maison de Beauté Valaze at 46 West 57th Street, New York. The exterior was painted white with the window grills and Rubinstein’s name across the front in bright green.

Other developments

Mańka Rubinstein [1885-?]. Helena and Mańka would fall out when Mańka tried to set up her own cosmetics business in New York in 1926 but the relationship was patched up and she was soon working for her sister once again. Above: 1930 Rubinstein make-up recommendations based on types incorporating new shades. Nail cosmetics Slesin, S. (2003). Over the top: Helena Rubinstein extraordinary style, beauty, art, fashion design. New York: Pointed Leaf Press. Helena Rubinstein Beauty Products Manufacturing Company becomes H. J. T. Beauty Products Manufacturing Company. Valaze Complexion Powder (for average or oily skin) and Novena Poudre (for dry, sensitive skin) continued to be sold during the 1920s. The original shades of Flesh, White, Pink, Cream, Ochre and Mauve were extended becoming Flesh, White, Rose, Natural, Rachel, Ochre and Mauve by 1920 with other shades including Peaches and Cream, Blush, Mauresque, Light Ochre, French Ochre, Deep Ochre, Gypsy Tan (Cote d’Azur) and Dixie Tan added later on. Many of the newer shades were darker, a reflection of the growing vogue of suntanning. Some shades were also made available in other forms; e.g. Gypsy Tan (1929) came as a foundation, powder and liquid powder. Like Elizabeth Arden’s Rosetta-Bronze make-up, the foundation was available in a tube to make it easier to take to the beach.

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