Savage/ Stevens Model 67 Series E Schematics, Bookmark File Pdf Savage Model 67 Series C Manual

JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.

You are watching: Stevens model 67 series e schematics

any help would be appreciated in disassembly and cleaning of a savage arms serial # b671393 12ga.3″ chambered springfield model 67 series e.thanks beforehand for any comments
any help would be appreciated in disassembly and cleaning of a savage arms serial # b671393 12ga.3″ chambered springfield model 67 series e.thanks beforehand for any comments
Hello. Welcome to the manicomio. I”m working from memory on this, always a bad idea, but here is what I remember. The barrell on these are not removable, and if you wish to clean it from the breech end (always the preferred way) you will have to drop the trigger assembly, remove the buttstock and clean it thru the action. Complete disassembly of this model is not for the faint of heart. I will try to attach an exploded view and you can see what you face. Good luck and hope this helps a little.

See more: Samsung Gear Fit 2 Pro Vs Fitbit Vs Samsung Gear Fit 2 Pro Vs Fitbit Charge 2

roger thanks for reply JONDAR i ran across the same image but was wanting more of a remove item 14 than take 34 from side and turn 90 degree sort of instructional move by move but again i do thank you for your reply
I have a springfield Model 67 and the action is not locking when you chamber another shell and if you jiggle the pump it will open the action. It is also not striking the primer hard enough to fire the shell and I believe it is directly being caused by the action not closing correctly. I have the schematics but would like more helpful info if it is available.

See more: How Much Is A 1050 Ti Worth ?: Buildapc Nvidia Geforce Gtx 1050 Ti Graphics/Video Cards

Parts number 31 and 33 govern the bolt locking. When the bolt closes, the bolt lock raises up to the rear of the bolt locking it in place. When the gun fires, the hammer comes forward and the small stem on the side of the hammer catches part number 31 (spring) and pulls the bolt lock down to release the bolt for the next “pump” loading. The “nose” of the bolt lock most times wears or deforms due to repeated battering and has to be reshaped, tig welded and refit or replaced. While replacment would seem the easiest to do, most times it isn”t. The hook spring on the bottom of the bolt lock has to be in the proper position for the hammer to catch it in it”s forward travel. Going to a new bolt lock will require you to guess repeatedly at the proper amount of “bend” it has, and exactly where. A good idea would be to make a tracing of the bolt lock on paper of the lock and spring unit to refit the new parts. If you MUST replace the parts remember that while the system might work well while you have the trigger group in your hands and the hammer catches the spring to release the bolt lock, when you install it in the rec the lock will not come up as high as when it was in your hand therefore putting the hook spring in a different place when the hammer falls. This caused me considerable consternation when working on these guns untill I figured out the error. When disassem for cleaning, it is best to remove the butt stock and the small thru pin is easier to drive out from one side more than the other (I don”t remember which at the moment). For cleaning I would soak, brush out, blow clean and oil rather than dissem the entire trigger group unless you have more than average experience with guns. When the bolt does not come forward enough to fire, check the chamber area, bolt face, extractor slots for anything that could retrd forward travel. Also see if you can make another turn on the forend cap (aafter cking to see that your pin is not worn or broke). Good luck.

Related Articles

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published.

Back to top button