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How To Convert A Gas Dryer To Electric ? (Find Out Now!) Converting A Gas Dryer To An Electric Dryer

I am moving to an all electric apartment and have a gas dryer. It is 3 years old. Can it be converted to an electric dryer? How would I find someone to do this?

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In general, no you can”t do this.

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I suppose it”s possible that the manufacturer uses many of the same parts between their gas and electric models and you could buy enough parts to do a conversion, but this would likely cost more than just buying an electric dryer in the first place.

But I”ve never seen a supported conversion kit – my advice: sell the gas dryer and buy an electric.

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You might convert it to use propane. that way you can keep using it. There are some videos around how to do it.

Don”t know about how it will affect its working, or longevity.

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I suppose you could, but it doesn”t make sense. Gas is almost always cheaper than electricity per kilowatt. So the operational cost is less for the gas dryer. In addition gas produces more BTU than electric so the gas dryer is more efficient and will dry the clothes faster. The only down side is the initial cost of the appliance is a bit higher for a gas dryer

Yes, a mechanical control gas dryer can be converted to an electric dryer, just as a mechanical control electric dryer can be converted to gas. The newer computer controlled appliances may be problematic for conversions, i.e., too expensive to make it a feasible option, (but who knows, maybe flip a dip switch on the board and it might work just fine). Otherwise, on a mechanical control dryer, most of the parts are the same whether gas or electric(or propane which is a relatively simple, safe and inexpensive conversion from NG).

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While I am familiar with Alliance products, I am fairly certain most dryers would be the same. As far as dryers go, manufacturers save time and money by having most options built into the cabinets and controls, in other words, most of the cabinet and moving parts of dryers are the same whether gas or electric, and have been unchanged for decades. What has changed, and not always for the better, are the controls and their consoles/panels. Mechanical controls seldom if ever breakdown in a residential setting, whereas computer controls can go bad for a variety of reasons and are expensive to replace.

The first thing would be to remove the parts specific to the gas dryer:the gas lead-in pipe assembly, shut off valve and elbow, igniter and bracket assembly, burner assembly, the coils and gas valve assembly and mounting bracket, heat duct shroud, combustion duct and limit thermostat, and the 110 power lead in cord.Then we would replace all of the above with an electric heater kit (either 208 or 240 volts) which includes all wire assemblies, thermal fuse assembly, and limit thermostat, the mounting holes are already in the heater duct it attaches to.Next comes the 220 terminal block and terminal block shield which attach to the backside of the rear bulkhead assembly, the mounting holes are already there on all dryers as are the 220 terminal block access cutout and cover on the rear of the cabinet, through which is installed the 3 prong or 4 prong 220 lead in cord.

And finally the wiring, the security cabinet harness assembly and wire harness assembly specific to the machine (front or rear controls) must be changed to the versions appropriate to the machine”s serial number and the new electric heater.

For any looking at a gas to electric conversion, it would be wise to inspect/replace items such as the (2) cylinder rollers, and the (2) cylinder roller shafts, the cylinder belt, the idler lever and wheel assembly, and the flexible exhaust venting outside of the machine which may become clogged with lint.Since most of the working parts must be removed from inside the dryer for this conversion, it is quite accessible to use of a vacuum to remove all lint inside the cabinet or the vents at the rear, and all that holds the motor and exhaust fan assembly is 2 screws and a power clip, so it doesn”t take long to remove it and blow out any lint which has accumulated inside the blower housing and on the motor.

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The kick panel on most dryers has 2 5/16 screws holding it on, and if you have someone who can remove it you can check to see if there is a buildup of lint inside, if so you should call for service, or if so inclined, unplug the machine and carefully vacuum out whatever lint is accessible because a buildup of lint inside the dryer is a fire hazard whether gas or electric.

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