You are watching: 2006 cadillac cts transmission fluid change
Hello, new guy to the Forum…My son just came home from Afghanistan and bought himself a 2006 CTS with about 75,000 miles on it. Going through bringing things up to speed, directional signal lights, oil and filter changes, new brakes, grease fittings, filling rear end, etc. I noticed the transmission fluid has been leaking, must be the rear of the pan gasket, but it actually looks like it is dripping out of the middle few bolts at the rear of the pan. So we want to change the filter & gasket and then refill the fluid. I see there is a star wrench plug where the fluid will go in, but I can”t seem to get it to budge, any tricks would be appreciated. Am I correct that the tranny takes 9-9.5 quarts of fluid?Thanks,Bill
T45, if that”s work and it looks like it going to get stripped maybe try to make grove with a chisel on the side of the bolt and use a flat screw driver and a hammer.it seems to me that”s what has been done to my plug in the past.
I couldn”t get mine to budge either. Set up a few extensions and a knuckle with the torx bit on it. Hooked it up to my impact gun in reverse and hit it once. Bolt moved, spun it out by hand. Never use impact to tighten these.
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I had a stuck fill plug as well. I ended up welding a 19mm nut to it, then I replaced it with a 19mm hex drain bolt works so much better. Do the same you will be much better of.As for filling it, after you drop the pan filter and gasket and replace filter and gasket and close it up, you”ll need about 6 – 7 quarts of Dexron VI, pump it through the fill plug till it flows out of course car has to be level. Then while the car is parked with your foot on the brake, turn the engine on and move the shifter for a few seconds through P R N D. Then while it”s running pump more Dexron VI till it flows out again, then you”re done. BTW get the AC Delco gasket not the felpro one and I recommend the Wx filter.
Thank you everyone for the help…yes I already stripped the Torx ridges, so I”m on the next trick…I read online somewhere that sometimes they put locktite on the threads so I guess I should have used a little heat, although it”s quite close quarters for that.
There is no need to worry about the size of the fill plug. When I wasn”t able to get my fill plug out, as I mentioned I welded a 19mm nut. I then removed it. Went down to an auto parts store and almost all auto parts stores have an assortment of oil drain plugs. I took my caliper with me and triple checked against my old fill plug. And if memory serves me right (do not quote me on this but %90 sure) it was this drain plug that I went with: 19mm hex drain plug M18-1.50.19mm hex M18-1.5 which means the threads are 18mm wide and the socket size is 19mm.And of course it”s metric, everything on this car is in Metric, the GM 5l40E was even assembled in Strasbourg, France there is no way these guys are dealing with our silly SAE system, it”s gonna be metric for sure. The differential is from Getrag, made in Germany, you bet those fill and drain plugs are pretty close in size and have metric threads as well. Heck, %95 of my toolkit is in metric, as that”s what most GM cars these days use the same can be said about Japanese cars which are definitely all metric bolt/nut users.Luckily in my garage I have a big assortment of metric and SAE nuts, turns out I had a proper metric nut which I double checked against both the removed and new plugs. It was exact so I proceeded into the replacement of the old fill plug with the 19mm drain plug.Again don”t quote me on this, take your old fill plug out, measure it with a caliper against a regular 19mm M18-1.50 drain plug, if it”s not that (I doubt it”s not) then jump up or down in size till you determine a proper match from the board.If you want to be extra sure, take your old drain plug to home depot, use the measurement sample metric bolt assortment board to determine if it”s an M18 or if it”s bigger than that or not.Also a tip for you guys stripping the torx fill plug, the reason why I stripped mine is that I used an extension and a socket which wasn”t seating the torx bit straight due to the drive shaft tunnel insulation getting in the way. The best tip that I have been given is to use a flexible extension. I tried a flexible extension in that area and it bends perfectly and allows the torx bit to go straight where you want it.