I have a 03 Taurus w/38000 miles. The car overall runs fine but every so often (3 times so far) the car will run rough acting like its starving for fuel. I have resat the fuel shut off in the trunk and the the car runs fine but 2 of the 3 times I have had to let the car cool down and then reset the switch and it starts and runs fine for a week or so then it happens again.I feel it maybe the fuel pump relay but I am not sure. How can I find out what the problem may be?

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Check fuel pressure. If the pump is failing, the pressure will be lower than it should be. If it is the relay, it will lose pressure entirely when the engine stalls.The relay is in the diagrams below


I"ve been having problems with my car lately whereas the car sitting at idle would die intermittenly. I replaced the fuel filter which seemed to help then symptoms came back and got worse to the point that the car wouldn"t even start unless I shot starter fluid into throttle body in which case the car might run for 5-10 mins.I then dropped gas tank and replaced the entire fuel pump assy. The car ran fine for 2 days after which the car sat untouced for 4 days. I came home from a trip and tried to start car and again it would only turn over and not start unless I shot starter fluid into it, and then the car ran at idle for 5 mins before dying again. I don"t beleive it"s the new fuel pump. Could it be a defective pump relay or maybe a bad ground?Thanks, Quadrunner(734)658-3941

Turn the key to on, and listen for the pump, it should run for 2-3 seconds, if not check fuses and relay in the power distribution center under the hood. If they are OK check the connector at the tank and test for power. Is your check engine light on? There will be a code set if it is the fuel pump driver module, or PCM...you will get P1233 or P1234 scan it, even if you have to buy a cheap scanner at Autozone...It"s an investment that can be used on all cars sold in the US sinc 1996...post the result, or let me know if the light isn"t on, Also make sure the inertia switch is pessed down, it"s in the trunk...Fuel pump driver module is behind the right kickpanel, the pink/black wire is pump power, and the whte/red is pump control, test pink black for power while someone turns the key to ON.


The check engine light is not on, and I did press down on the inertia button to make sure it didn"t trip. My brother is stopping bye tomorrow night to hookup his obd2 computer and read the codes for me, but when I get home from work tonight I will check relays and fuses. After I installed the new pump last week I could hear the pump energize when I first tried the new pump, but now the sound that it makes isn"t as loud so that"s why I was wondering about a bad ground maybe not supplying enough voltage to pump. I"m also going bye Harbor Freight tonight to pick up a pressure guage to check my static pressure when keying ignition
Yes I"m familiar with testing procedures, and I will check the relay and fuse when I get home tonight.Quadrunner
I checked my fuses and they were okay.I pulled off rear compartment panel and checked the inertia switch and it checked out okay. I then checked the fuel pump control module and here are the results.Pink (PWR) with blk tracer = 12 voltsblk(gnd) checked okay for continuity to ground.Blk with Pink tracer (gnd) checked open for continuity to ground.What sould other wires read? Such as the mod in and mod out, as well as the pmp cntl?Could this pump control module be bad, or is there a way to check to see if it"s okay.
Fule press, 40psi spark = ok replace fule pump relay samething replace fule pump turn key on x2 fule press. 60 psi start & stall after 30-40 sec. Fule press. Dropes to 40 psi. With engine run & stall. Scan ck 1 code p1000, no fule leak tps=ok maf=ok coolant temp=ok egr=ok. Remove vac. Line from fule press. Reg. Samething. HELP!
The other thing to check is the crank sensor, PCM must recieve the crank signal to energize fuel injectors.

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You could have a blockage in the intake tract or exhaust tract. One common thing is for catalytic converters to rust out and collapse in on themselves and block the exhaust. You can try banging on the converter with your hand or a rubber mallet to listne for losse metal. Another problem might be the Idle Air Control Valve, IACV, which controls idle. It is located on the intake manifold near the throttle body. You can test it by removing it and leaving electrical connnector on, some have coolant lines running through them leave those one, and get an assistant to help you. Watch the solenoid plunger while your helper starts the car. It should move when the car starts.Also look for carbon deposits in the trottle body by taking of intake tube. You may need to clean the thrttle body and IACV. When you do so use always spray towards the intake meaning the direction air would flow into the intake tract. Otherwise you could force depsoits deepr into the ports in the IACV.